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An A+ for Pinoy BBQ

Steve Raichlen views a roasting pork
By ALEX G. PAMAN Filipinas Magazine
Barbecue expert Steven Raichlen gives the Philippines high marks for its grilling techniques.
World-renowned barbecue expert Raichlen recently visited the Philippines, one of several research stops across Asia for his upcoming book, Planet Barbecue. Accompanied by Chef Mike Profeta and his business partner Afat Martinez, the award-winning author and television host was treated to a special tour of the countrys diverse culinary traditions, particularly its grilling culture.
Visiting such places as Inengs BBQ, Chicken Bacolod Inasal and Lydias Lechon in Manila and Quezon City, Raichlen even took time to explore the local turo-turos and carinderias , sampling native street fare, such as "helmet," "betamax," "IUD," "adidas" and "isaw."
It was his first trip to the country, and he was impressed with both the cuisine and the people. "Complex use of bold flavors and mercifully down-to-earth style of eating," he said, describing the experience. "I found everyone to be very kind, generous and hospitable. No one minded my taking a photo, and they were generous with recipes."
He found significant differences between Filipino cuisine and its Asian neighbors. "The extensive use of vinegar and the long marinating times, both likely reflecting the Spanish influence," he said. "Also, the use of calamansi instead of lime as a souring agent."
He also noted differences between Pinoy grilling ingredients and other grilling traditions. "The grilling itself is pretty similar, the lengthy marinating is not. Besides vinegar and calamansi, your patis has a different flavor, and so does your bagoong . Also, you combine lemongrass and tomatoes a lot, a combination I have not seen elsewhere in Asia."
Next project
What would he like to see Pinoy grill jockeys explore next? "Id like to see a Filipino version of a steak. Id also like to see how Filipinos would handle baby back ribs or lamb ribs," the barbecue expert states. Chef Mike Profeta, who also treated the celebrity author to a lavish home-cooked banquet, enjoyed the experience of touring him around. "I was so impressed with his passion and dedication to his barbecue adventure," he said. "It was a fantastic experience because I got to show him how diversified our culture is when it comes to food. Since we were colonized by different countries, our tastes are very unique."
Aside from his research, Raichlen gave a lecture and did a book signing in Manila. He enjoyed his short stay so much that he declared he will definitely visit again, particularly to see the countryside and the beach. His only challenge was the same issue everyone else has in Manila: "the traffic."
Raichlen described Planet Barbecue as his love song to global grilling, celebrating how people grill in fifty different countries. He also has a new show premiering on PBS this month, called "The Primal Grill."
And what was Mr. Raichlens overall impression of Pinoy barbecue?
"Filipino food is one of the best kept culinary secrets in Asia and that certainly applies to Filipino grilling," he said enthusiastically. "Everywhere I went, I found bold flavors, ingenious grill masters, and terrific food served by extraordinarily gracious people. The lechon at Lydias goes down as one of the two or three very best roast pigs Ive ever eaten. Run, dont walk, to your next Filipino barbecue."
For more information on Steven Raichlen, grilling tips, recipes and tools, visit www.barbecuebible.com .
About the author
Alex G. Paman is a free-lance entertainment reporter based in Sacramento, California. He has been published in the Philippine Review and Philippine Fiesta newspapers since 1994.